From the hunter’s perspective, a lot of hard work goes into finding a white truffle. For the customer, it’s a lot of hard-earned cash that goes onto buying one. If you are thinking of splashing out, it’s worth knowing a few things about this tuber magnatum before you do. A little information about this enigmatic truffle can be the difference between an unforgettable experience and a massive let down.
1. The ‘Alba truffle’ is probably not from Alba.
Before we get onto the topic of white truffles, we need to talk about the town of Alba in Piedmont.
‘Alba truffle’ has become the generic name for the tuber magnatum pico or the white winter truffle. However not all white winter truffles come from Alba. White truffles also grow in Abruzzo, Tuscany and Aqualagna, in fact ‘Alba’ truffles can be found wherever there are suitable growing conditions. This misnomer might seem irrelevant but it is indicative of the lack of clarity within the truffle industry. Calling the truffle by its proper name would be an important step towards greater transparency and the eradication of might many more deceptive practices which ultimately harm the truffle industry.
In 2012, the Italian forestry corps ordered an investigation into the Asti truffle market (Asti is around 25 km from Alba). After months spent examining the business activities of white truffle dealers, it was found that 90% of white truffles with the Alba label did not originate from there. This and other truffle-related scams are detailed in Ryan Jacobs‘ very well-researched book ‘The Truffle Underground.”
The mystique surrounding white truffles can be appealing but it is sensible as a consumer to be armed with the facts.
- Tuber magnatum pico grow in several different regions of Italy as well as other neighbouring countries.
- If fresh, white truffles will taste and smell equally good regardless of provenance
Despite this, dealers go to a great deal of trouble and expense to import truffles to Piedmont where they are baptized as Alba natives. The Alba label has prestige thanks to the promotional efforts of restauranteur Giacomo Morra. Back in the late 1940s and 50s, Morra the master marketer was gifting truffles to the glamorous and the powerful. Kruschev, Monroe, Churchill, Loren thus linking the town of Alba with status and the white truffle as a symbol of wealth.
Over the years there have been many boasts in the truffle community that this person with an amazing nose, or that person with extraordinary taste buds can distinguish an Alba truffle from all other truffles. There is no record of these wild claims being put to the test. For good reason. This is not wine and while the aroma and appearance of a truffle are affected by the earth it grew in and the species of trees it grew under, these factors are not standard across an entire region. So, although sophisticated lab tests exist which accurately pinpoint the birthplace of a white truffle, it seems unlikely that humans can replicate this feat.
So in short, if you are thinking of buying an Alba truffle, it is probably not from Alba, probably not even from Piedmont. But that does not really matter and will not affect your enjoyment of the truffle. There are other, far more important considerations when it comes to selecting a high quality product.
2. Timing is really important
There’s a time to buy truffles. Don’t buy them prior to the end of the third week of September or after the second week of January. Hunting for white truffles is not permitted outside of this period .There are strict punishments for any transgressions in Italy and hunters risk fines and getting their licence revoked. Tuber magnatum pico purchased outside of this window are illegal truffles but more importantly will probably be fiorone – an inferior early season product with little aroma to speak of.
The very best time for white truffles is during November when they are at peak quality and are found in quantity. This may also translate into a drop in price, depending on the supply that year. These are the only truffles which are currently not cultivated so supply is entirely in nature’s hands.
Truffles have a very short shelf life. Ideally you should eat one within two days of purchase. If you are planning to serve it at the weekend it makes sense not to buy it on Monday – it will have lost much of its aroma by then.
3. Plan in advance how you are going to serve the truffle
If you haven’t used a white truffle in your cooking before then you are in for a real treat. First though, make sure you plan for how you will use it and source the best quality ingredients for the dish. If you are making truffled eggs, get the best free-range you can find. Truffle aroma bonds with fat molecules so use this to your favour. Prime any eggs, butter or cream by storing them with your truffle in a sealed container.
The golden rule is that you never cook a white truffle. Instead shave it thinly on top of the finished dish. If you want to experience the full flavour of the truffle, then the dish should be something very simple. Maybe a creamy fresh pasta, some scrambled eggs, a risotto or a steak. The flavours of the dish never compete with the truffle which must be the star of the meal.
If you plan to eat truffles regularly, it might be worth investing in a truffle shaver. These are special hand-held mini mandolins that allow you to slice the truffle into wafer-thin shavings. . If you don’t have a shaver then use whatever you have in your kitchen, a peeler, a mandolin, a very sharp knife or a razor –Goodfella’s style.
Remember though – the thinner the truffle slices the better!
4. Plan for how you will transport and store the truffle
Truffles need special care and storage so if you need to travel with the truffle, make sure you have planned ahead how you will keep it cool. The optimum temperature to store a white truffle is 4 °C (39 °F) so don’t let it sit around in a warm car for example. You can use a bottle of frozen water or an ice pack in a tupperware container. Take care not to let the truffle come into direct contact with the ice though. Always keep it well wrapped up. Finally don’t let the truffle get wet.
When you get the truffle safely home, you need to take special care of it and store it properly. If you don’t overhandle it then there will be no need to wear gloves. You should definitely not wash the truffle, in fact most hunters would advise not to even clean the truffle excessively until right before you serve it. Keeping a layer of dirt on the surface helps slow down the loss of the truffle aroma.
Store your truffle in the fridge in a jar and close the lid tightly. You cannot freeze it under any circumstances. White truffles stored in rice tend to dry out and will lose their flavour far more quickly than if you store them in a glass jar. Before popping it into the jar, wrap the truffle in a paper towel or soft cloth. Don’t forget to change this wrapping once a day. The moment the truffle leaves the ground it begins to lose moisture. This will cause the papers to get damp and, in the worst scenario, mould will form.
Seal the jar well or else everything in your fridge will be imparted with a very strong aroma of truffle. This might be desirable with butter but the truffle scent doesn’t pair so well with other things in your fridge like your tiramisù.
5. Truffle colours
Tuber magnatum pico can vary in colour, depending on the ground they grew in. The most sought-after are the light yellow or golden truffles but this is just an aesthetic consideration. The colour does not affect the flavour, so darker brown, cream coloured or even greyish truffles are just as good although not as pleasing to the eye. A pinky colour is not a defect either, truffles often have light pink patches, this is not mould, this is quite normal and does not affect the quality in any way.
The colour should only concern you if you want your truffle to make a grand entrance or to be the show-stopper, a golden globe on a velvet cushion. Otherwise don’t worry about it, you have enough to think about.
6. The shape
Another point you don’t need to concern yourself with a great deal. The truffle may be almost perfectly rounded somewhat like a potato. These truffles tend to be highly-prized in restaurants for aesthetic reasons and as they are easy to clean. Other truffles are downright ugly, knobbly, warty with all kinds of gnarly protuberances. Some truffles have holes in them usually from the tree roots which entwined them as they grew to maturation. Holes (as long as they are not soft) are perfectly acceptable. It is not uncommon to feel disappointed by the look of a truffle. But cheer up, after all this is not a beauty contest. No one buys truffles because they look good. In short, the shape of the truffle does not affect its taste. Other considerations will affect taste as we will see.
Truffles are often highly irregular in shape. This should not be your main consideration, go for aroma over a shapely form.
7. The smell
This is where things become complicated. This is the hardest information to impart to someone who has yet to try a white truffle. How do you describe the smell of something as unique, rich and intoxicating as the tuber magnatum? Though it was many years ago, I will never forget the first time I tried a white truffle as the aroma nearly knocked me off my feet. Research into the truffle’s distinctive heady scent brings up a mixed bag of bizarre descriptions which appear to depend on the nose of the writer. For me it is a cross between forest earth, cognac, mushroom, garlic and cream.
Before you buy a truffle you will need to perform a smell test. Sniff the truffle on all sides, checking that the aroma is uniform and there are no patches where the smell appears to alter, especially if there is a hint of ammonia. Truffles have an earthy muskiness to them, but make sure the musk is not tinged and that the aroma is fresh and even. It is unlikely that anyone will try to sell you a white truffle which is about to go rotten, the greatest potential danger is being sold a truffle that is a couple of weeks’ old. From the moment it is unearthed, the truffle’s aroma steadily dissipates. If you have been sold a truffle that is on its last legs, the fragrance is no longer powerful and your carefully planned, skillfully executed meal simply won’t be that great.
8. How does it feel…?
This is a little easier than the smell test as texture is gradeable and far easier to put into words. A very hard truffle is undesirable- it shouldn’t feel like a stone – but a soft truffle is far worse. Your ideal truffle should be firm to the touch but with a very slight give.
9. The price tag
The more often a truffle changes hands, the higher the price tag. If you can buy directly from the hunter you are more likely to get a cheaper, fresher truffle. The price of the winter whites will also fluctuate from year to year depending on production. Hot, dry summers will lead to poor magnatum yields in the autumn. In such a year, prices can reach astronomical heights. During peak festival season (mid-October to mid-November) demand for white truffles is high which will push up prices. The same applies at Christmas and New Year. Prices usually fall at the end of November and in the first weeks of December.
A cheaper product is not necessarily a good thing and I would recommend checking any truffle being sold at discount. The seller of a bargain white truffle may be in a hurry to be rid of it before it goes off. There are several common ruses which include dousing old truffles with truffle oil or storing them with fresh truffles to lend a temporary aroma. So, if the truffle is a lot cheaper than this season’s price, double check texture and aroma and ask about the age and source.
Truffles are graded according to size and priced like diamonds. An unbroken piece weighing 100 grams (A+) is worth a lot more than 20 truffles weighing 5 grams (C). Broken pieces are also cheaper too so this is a good place to start if you are looking for a good buy.
Conclusion
As white truffles are so rare and expensive, few people have real experience with them. This makes it easy for unscrupulous sellers to take advantage. I think it’s well worth learning a bit about them before you buy. It’s one of the best ways to make sure your truffle lives up to expectations and the magic that surrounds this precious ingredient.
